Saturday, 25 November 2017

Coast, Saundersfoot, Pembrokeshire restaurant review

Coast in Saundersfoot has a new head chef. Following the departure of Will Holland in October, Tom Hine is now running the stoves at the sister restaurant to the excellent Grove of Narberth and AA’s restaurant of the year, the Beach House in Oxwich.

Hine has done his time in many an acclaimed kitchen. He spent five years at Rick Stein's Seafood Restaurant in Padstow and eight years with Michael Caines, initially as sous chef at Gidleigh Park and most recently as executive head chef at Lympstone Manor. 

Coppett Hall beach, the vista from Coast

Unsurprisingly, Coast’s menu has a fish-focus but there are vegetarian and meat options available throughout. Starters average around £12, mains £25 and desserts £9.

We ordered the 6 course tasting menu (£75), always Mrs G’s preferred option as it means she doesn’t have to wait for me to take photos of her food. 

A trio of generous pre-dinner snacks were washed down with a large glass of excellent Koester-Wolff riesling (£7.30). 

A soft sweet scallop coated in nutty sesame seeds was bathed in a ponzu dressing with a good hit of citrus and soy.

Lightly textured and potently cheesy parmesan polenta was topped with rosemary and the crunch of candied walnuts. The combination of sweet nuts and salty cheese was delicious. 

The standout was spiced potted shrimp sat atop dill cream and finished with a shellfish espuma that was as intense as any lobster bisque. 

Uber-light and crisp brown bread with the warmth of cumin and pretty as heck mini French loaves were both first rate. The warm breads were served with a compelling caramelised butter. 

A crisp-skinned fillet of oily mackerel and crumbed briny oyster were paired with an enjoyably savoury miso mayonnaise and cleansing cucumber emulsion and cubes. 

Charred sweetcorn risotto was a big winter warmer of a dish. The velvety risotto, flecked with the caramelised corn, was topped with spicy chorizo oil and pieces, sweet flakes of white crab, a good grating of savoury parmesan and rich egg yolk, and blobs of intense shellfish emulsion. This was a delicious dish but the delicate white crab was a little lost amongst the other intense flavours. 

A spoonably soft piece of confit salmon was served with cubes of smokey potato with just the right amount of bite, courgetti and a creamy white wine veloute. Pearls of salty caviar brought both balance and luxury to the dish. 

Mrs G and I gave both the mains on offer a run for their money. Both were lush but Mrs G won with the fish dish.

A precisely-cooked fillet of halibut was served with potent mushroom puree, charred spring onion, meaty hen of the woods mushroom and salty pancetta. 

A side of mash was the kind of thing I could have inhaled by the troughful. The hyper smooth and buttery potato was topped with uber-meaty chicken jus and a well-judged quantity of fragrant truffle.

My tender piece of crisp-skinned suckling pig was served with an extra wheel of top drawer crackling. Double crackling win. The pork was joined by curried butternut squash puree, sweet apple sauce, bronze and squidgy sage gnocchi, crispy sage leaves and a glossy sauce. 

Dessert saw a very tasty yet slightly low key and dinky end to the meal. Wobbly vanilla panna cotta pieces were served with an intense and super smooth blackberry sorbet, blackberry pieces and puree, the crunch of candied nuts and a light lemon curd. 

The food at coast is big on flavour and technical skill. Add to that the stunning vista and lovely service and they’re onto a winner. Compared to my last visit, I definitely think the food has stepped up a notch.

Disclosure - I was invited to Coast, all food was complimentary. I paid for my own drinks. 

The Details:
Address - Coast Restaurant, Coppett Hall Beach, Saundersfoot, SA69 9AJ
Web -
Telephone - 01834 810800

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